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Wave Length Modules

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CALCULATOR MODULE : Dimensionless Wave Number   ±

Calculate common dimensionless and dimensional ocean wave numbers.

Ocean wave numbers include :

`kw = (2 pi) / L = 2 pi(fw) / c `
`fw = 1 / T `
`Ur = h l^2 / d^3 = (h/d)^3 / (l/d)^2 `
`H* = H / (g t^2) `
`d* = d / (g t^2) `

where :

kw = wave number (dimesion 1/length)
fw = wave frequency (dimension 1/time)
Ur = dimensionless Ursell number
H* = dimensionless wave height
d* = dimensionless water depth
L = wave length
f = wave frequency
c = wave celerity or propagation speed

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CALCULATOR MODULE : Airy Linear Gravity Wave   ±

Calculate Airy wave velocity, acceleration and surface profile. The Airy linear gravity wave theory is a first order model of freshwater and seawater gravity waves. The Airy wave is assumed to have a simple sinusoidal (first order harmonic) profile which is a reasonable approximation for small amplitude deep water waves. As the wave amplitude increases and or the water depth decreases the waves tend to become more peaky and are no longer a simple sinusoidal shape. The Airy wave model is then less accurate for analysing water particle motions. For large amplitude waves, or shallow water waves other wave models such as Stokes wave or Cnoidal wave should be used. The recommended wave type is displayed below the calc bar.

Check that the convergence is close to or equal to one. The wave period should be measured at zero current velocity to avoid Doppler effects.

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    CALCULATOR MODULE : Stokes Fifth Order Wave   ±

    Calculate Stokes wave velocity, acceleration and surface profile using Skjelbria and Hendrickson's fifth order wave method.

    Stokes wave model is suitable for waves with short wavelength or small amplitude. The calculators include the correction to the sign of the c 8 term in the C2 coefficient (changed from + to -2592 c 8 ). Check that the convergence is close to or equal to one. The wave period should be measured at zero current velocity to avoid Doppler effects.

    Note : The Stokes wave theory uses a truncated infinite series. The truncated series is only valid for certain conditions. For shallow water waves the cnoidal wave is recommended. The recommended wave type is displayed below the calc bar.

    Reference : Lars Skjelbria and James Hendrickson, Fifth Order Gravity Wave Theory

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      CALCULATOR MODULE : Cnoidal Fifth Order Wave   ±

      Calculate Cnoidal wave velocity, acceleration and surface profile using Fentons 1999 fifth order wave method.

      The Cnoidal wave is defined by the elliptic modulus m, the wave trough depth w, and the wave alpha parameter α. The Cnoidal wave model is a truncated series and is only valid within certain ranges. The Cnoidal wave theory is not recommended where the wavelength over water depth ratio (Lod) is less than 8. The recommended wave type is displayed below the calc bar.

      Note : The cnoidal wave theory uses a truncated infinite series. The truncated series is only valid for conditions where the series converges (m > 0.8). For deep water waves with small m, the series does not converge (use the Stokes wave instead).

      Check that the convergence is close to or equal to one. The wave period should be measured at zero current velocity to avoid Doppler effects.

      Reference : J D Fenton, The Cnoidal Theory Of Water Waves, Developments in Offshore Engineering, Gulf, Houston, chapter 2, 1999

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