Calculate ocean wave shoaling wave height from water depth.
Shoaling occurs as the water depth decreases or becomes more shallow. the wave length and celerity decrease (the wave becomes slower), and the wave height increases. The wave energy flux is assumed to be constant. For Airy waves the wave energy flux is proportional to c H^2 (the wave celerity times the wave height squared). The same relationship is assumed to also apply to Stokes and cnoidal waves. Use the Result Plot option to compare the initial wave and shoaling wave profiles, or the wave height versus water depth for Airy, Stokes and cnoidal waves. The recommended wave type is displayed below the calc bar.
Note : The Stokes wave is the most suitable for a transtion from deep water to shallow water waves. The cnoidal wave is not suitable for deep water waves. The Airy wave is not suitable for shallow water waves.
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