Pipeng Toolbox : Breaking Wave Calculators Blank User
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Breaking Wave Height

Calculate ocean wave breaking wave height for shallow water waves and deep water waves.

Reference : J D Fenton, The Cnoidal Theory Of Water Waves, Developments in Offshore Engineering, Gulf, Houston, chapter 2, 1999

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CALCULATOR : Ocean Wave Maximum Wave Height And Significant Wave Height [FREE]   ±

Calculate ocean wave maximum wave height and significant wave height.

The maximum wave height is assumed to be directly proportional to the significiant wave height.

Tool Input

  • optype : Wave Spectrum Type
  • htype : Wave Height Input Type
  • H : Wave Height

Tool Output

  • Hm : Maximum Wave Height
  • Hs : Significant Wave Height
  • MoS : Maximum Height Over Significant Height

CALCULATOR : Ocean Wave Theory Selection Airy Stokes Or Cnoidal Wave [FREE]   ±

Select the most suitable wave theory (Airy, Stokes or cnoidal) from the dimensionless wave height, water depth and wave length (combined ISO method and Fenton method).

Use the Result Plot option to plot either dimensionless wave height versus water depth (ISO method), or dimensionless wave height versus wave length (Fenton method). The observed breaking wave height is lower than theoretical wave height.

Tool Input

  • wavetype : Wave Type
  • lttype : Wave Parameter Type
    • Tu : User Defined Wave Period
    • Lu : User Defined Wave Length
  • d : Water Depth
  • H : Wave Height

Tool Output

  • H* : Dimensionless Wave Height Number
  • L : Wave Length
  • T : Wave Period
  • Ur : Dimensionless Ursell Number
  • c : Wave Celerity
  • cvg : Convergence Check
  • d* : Dimensionless Water Depth Number
  • f : Wave Frequency
  • hod : Wave Height Over Water Depth Ratio
  • k : Wave Number
  • lod : Wave Length Over Water Depth Ratio
  • w : Wave Trough Height Above Seabed

CALCULATOR : Ocean Wave Breaking Wave Height Airy Stokes Or Cnoidal Wave [FREE]   ±

Calculate wave breaking height for shallow water waves and deep water waves.

The shallow water breaking wave height is proportional to the water depth. The deep water breaking wave height is proportional to the wave period squared. The Fenton breaking wave height is calculated from the water depth and wave length. The observed breaking wave height is lower than theoretical breaking wave height. Use the Result Plot option to plot either dimensionless wave height versus water depth (ISO method), or dimensionless wave height versus wave length (Fenton method).

Tool Input

  • wavetype : Wave Type
  • lttype : Wave Parameter Type
    • Tu : User Defined Wave Period
    • Lu : User Defined Wave Length
  • breaktype : Breaking Wave Type
  • d : Water Depth
  • H : Wave Height

Tool Output

  • H* : Dimensionless Wave Height Number
  • Hb : Breaking Wave Height
  • L : Wave Length
  • T : Wave Period
  • Ur : Dimensionless Ursell Number
  • c : Wave Celerity
  • cvg : Convergence Check
  • d* : Dimensionless Water Depth Number
  • f : Wave Frequency
  • hod : Wave Height Over Water Depth Ratio
  • k : Wave Number
  • lod : Wave Length Over Water Depth Ratio
  • w : Wave Trough Height Above Seabed